2009년 10월 9일 금요일

Summoning, Storm, and Static

Saturday, October 10th, approximately 11:34 am

I really don't know if some things are meant to be popular or admired here sometimes. I'm watching some strange channel on T.V. that is looping music videos of some Korean bands. The song I'm watching now is called "Only Lonely Glory", by a band, literally, called Bump of Chicken. I don't know if there was some mistake in the translation of that one, but, Bump of Chicken have a killer sound. The song before this was called "Happy Sad", and the video was basically a Korean girl who looked like Etta James and En Vogue, dancing around a city, and again I think somebody misinterpreted the definitions of those two words, happy and sad, because the video was her dancing around a black man straight out of, literally again, 1980s Chicago. He strummed an electric guitar and wore a purple suede hat, with a feather. And that was the video for "Happy Sad".

The next one is better. It's called "dousitekimiosukininattesimattangdarou?", obviously a very straightforward and simple name that doesn't need further explanation. And I didn't miss a letter. It's really called that, and I suppose you could Google it.

I'm learning more about how to eat out, and that many sit-down-on-the-ground establishments' menus average around 5,000 won a meal. These are usually served with kimchi, of course, and other vegetables (?) alongside the entree itself. Today I put on some sandals and walked around my part of the city, making mental notes of the services or items each shop offered for future reference. I came across a place that served items called Colpops. I've heard of these before, and Colpops are actually a reward at the academy I teach for good-behaving students. They collect coupons, and once they acquire 25 they're given a golden coupon, which is good for one Colpop at this place which resides in the building next to ours. A Colpop, as you can see in this picture I found which describes the item perfectly, is chicken nuggets and coke.


The chicken nuggets, which are very small, are stored in the peak compartment while your coke is stored in the belly. You eat the food, and drink the coke. Kids love it, I liked it, and apparently it's the "snack of the future" from South Korea. Does this or does this not sound like both something America should already have, and this?

There's a show on T.V. too called Magic World. It's hosted by an English-speaking white guy who rivals Richard Simmons in unabashed flamboyance but not in his red afro, and a Korean lady who I'm not quite sure the white guy understands, and his responses may well be scripted and he might be playing me for a fool. It's a kids show, and I wonder if this was the show Wonder Showzen was modeled after.

Sunday, October 11th, 1:33 pm

Something is really funny about something I just did. And I can’t say what unfortunately. I wonder if it'd be the kind of mistake or question that really was hilarious in this last where I, with a translation, would laugh too. I walked again across the city to Yudalsan Mountain in the last 45 minutes and went a considerably longer way than the time before, considering I left at noon I had a lot more time to spend in the sun before nightfall. And so, I found myself passing by a small café that had an older man outside excited to see me and greet me and invite me inside to eat. I was planning to get a small meal before I headed up the mountain anyway so this worked out and I walked in, and I’m sitting in a booth now that looks over a large part of the city. When I sat down, though, I figured I’d try to order something I know and THEN take the plunge I normally do when gazing into a menu of completely unreliable symbols.

My question was, “Do you have coffee?”.

Something was maniacally funny about this and he immediately starting laughing. He then told a coworker who was walking by. She laughed harder. In the booth next to me, a younger couple who apparently too have no sympathy or soul for the confused foreigner, also laughed. And you know I don’t believe it was the kind of thing that was malicious in any way but I definitely asked the wrong question, and I do not have my coffee now. I’m waiting for whatever I ordered, a 6,000 won “item” that could be anything from a mistakenly ordered alcoholic drink to a bowl of raw eel and rice. Those are the rules of menu roulette and I’ve cognitively accepted this truth weeks ago. It’s 1:57 in the afternoon now. I’m going to enjoy this meal and then head up the mountain. And remember folks and friends: Be infinitely confident in your own skin, because we are all talking meat.


And the kind man who originally mocked my question did, minutes later, bring me my coffee. In fact he bought it outside at a coffee vending machine - and these are awesome by the way. They serve a particular kind called "milk coffee" which is just too tasty for a first-hand attempt by me to contaminate it to describe it.


Sunday, October 11th, 6:28 pm

It was quite a long but an immensely fruitful day. I'm just now sitting down at my apartment and I'm going to give a lengthy recap of the events since the Cafe Incident, which I've coined as such and have garnished with capitol spelling. That meal turned out to be very good but I can't say what I ate other than the obvious kimchi and the rice. These are the kinds of meals you can get in many many places for around 5,000 won, which really is an amazing deal considering too that there are no tips in Korea. No tips at all.

After the cafe I walked over to a small shop and bought a bottle of water and paid the man 600 won for it. The opening steps to the somewhat intimidating climb are a great introduction to the mountain itself, and up the steps to the first plateau you come across many engravings and statues that describe Korean history in this area, and more notably Mokpo's role in that history. Unfortunately a lot of the writing describing the monuments are written in Korean.



I do know, as you'll see in this picture, that this particular monument is a large rock with the engraving of a popular Mokpo song called "Mokpo's Tears", describing the grueling enslavement of Japanese occupiers many years ago.


Knowing that it's likely a very sensitive historic point of interest I'm going to say this next part in a style that I'll call "aforementioned preemptive beforehand apologetic". The woman singing the song, that repeats every hour in all hours of the day, sounds almost similar to whoever voiced the singing bush on The Three Amigos. And to be honest the song seemed very "happy" even though I know for a fact the lyrics describe occupation from ruthless invaders and the struggles and deaths, even, endured by Koreans. Anyway, the left part of my face was a smirk and the right was reverent.

These pictures were taken as I went up.


There are markers that tell you in meters how high you've traveled and where you're currently at. The summit is 850 meters, and you start at around 40 meters. So, for a 810 meter climb, you're traveling vertically about a half mile. It's a pretty solid hike to the very top.


This picture here is of the formation of rocks off the main path where I had my encounter last weekend with a bee sent directly from the lower bastions of hell to hover playfully near my leg with its stinger exposed and dripping with intent to end my life and expose my female shrill I'd inevitably shout if the hornet were to strike me.


I've included a picture of the Giant Asian Hornet (actual name), the instigator of my new bee phobia.


I made my way to the summit and surprisingly passed by a few English-speaking people. Most were from Canada, one was from New York. I gave my emphatic introduction which is very honest considering I don't see too many people who aren't Korean nowadays. I chatted with a few groups who were either making their way down the mountain or up it. It's very good to meet new people this way, and we all have similar motives to be here, generally speaking.

When I reached the summit I took a few minutes to admire the view and introspectively retreat to myself. And you know a lot of these moments I prefer to keep to myself, but I don't see a lot of harm in relaying it to those of you who are reading this, and describing some premium details of this journey here. The view was absolutely exotic and gave me chills the same way the San Juan Islands do in Washington, or a beach does when the sun is shooting its very last light across the sky and turning that sky an eerie red, or when you're listening to your favorite song and simultaneously feeling euphoric about your life and what you've done and what you're doing, and knowing that although things aren't perfect you're trying your best to make them that way.


There's a lot of opportunity here for edifying ambiance to make its way into you and allow you to appreciate yourself, and life, and other people, while acknowledging the sometimes overpowering stress that is common and growing in this world, in our lives. See there's an alternative and very passionate truth I keep with me relating to this, and coming here to Korea has in even two weeks confirmed that truth to me, that life is beautiful and so much of our disdain for it comes from how we attribute events, people, and our own thoughts. Thankfully in the same way our love of life can also be translated as such. It's the people we keep around us and the goals we keep that make the experience worth it. I like how DMX puts it: "To live, is to suffer. To survive, that's to find meaning in the suffering". I think it's important to occasionally inject meaning into the experience if you feel you're simply passing days.


I listened to a few songs and wrote a few words down and then I packed up my things, headed down the mountain. I went a different way than before, and eventually found myself on some sort of triple black-diamond expert trail that had a lot of high-difficulty traversing elements that pretty much obligated me to create a mental note to buy some highly needed hiking boots. They'd grip the ground better because at least three times I almost slipped right onto the backside of myself.



There's a Buddhist Temple that sits in the center of the mountain at the bottom towards its 100 meter mark on the ground. If you're a clean freak it's highly possible you're a closet Buddhist because these people keep their things minty, and from high enough it's looks like a business model a company might show at a board meeting. At the bottom I walked along the road, and was again shown extraordinary generosity from the Korean people. A few times on the way up the mountain I came across a young family that was taking pictures, and I one time was asked and another time offered to take a picture of them. I did, and they passed me by on the road and stopped the car, and gave me some frozen milkshake snack. It was an incredibly nice gesture and it had me smiling as they drove away. It had me smiling too twenty minutes later when I passed by a small food shop and locked eyes with a pretty cute Korean girl. She gave an obvious smile, and about twenty steps after I passed the shop I kicked myself, and turned around. She spoke pretty good English and we had a few words to each other. Her name was (well it still is, and in fact I always wonder why people might put 'was' in this scenario in writing; are name changes this imminent?) ... Her name is Choe im Jeong. She was nice, so I told her we should talk again. She agreed, and she told me to come back next Saturday to the same place and see her again. She's a student here in Mokpo at a university, and her weeks apparently are quite busy.

I walked through my part of town a different way and was relieved and proud of myself to easily find my apartment. I'm recognizing a lot of places in this area now, and I know where to go to buy a lot of things locally. This is a high achievement for two weeks in a completely foreign country, city, town. I walked in, surrendered to a chair, and I wrote this.

Stay classy, everyone.

2009년 10월 6일 화요일

374 words


I swear I don’t mean to do this, but I find myself with good intention curiously seeking out new things within the schedule I possess now, which yields a small amount of legitimate free time, and probably spending too much money. I’ll be just fine but these restaurants I, technically, if two trips merit a technicality, now frequent, are always priced about 10 or 13 dollars a meal. And I know for a fact that Hugh and Kathryn toured me thoroughly through the area and highlighted many spots that charge only 5 or 6 dollars for a meal. I’m polite, for the most part, but if I try a sample at Costco and I really don’t like the food or have any intention of buying it I don’t stick around to hear the, forced, sales pitch from the agitated 43-year-old woman wearing both a hairnet and an obvious scowl of occupational disdain. I thank them and move on. My dear sister Lindsay, then, would be quite an opposite in this regard. I credit my mother for raising us in generosity, which presents many more opportunities to live happier lives than the alternative.

Tell me then how I’ve forgotten this appropriate coldness and, once I step into an establishment, I shed all defenses and force myself to order something – even when the menu starts at 10,000 won, and I was looking to spend half of that. There isn’t anything particularly daunting about these places, and tonight it was the same as before when I had my first showcasing of my deteriorating shell for strict sternness against rhetorical situations involving food and the exchange of my money for it. I’ve become polite, which shouldn’t be in my nature at all for an American and I'm likely spooking the natives. But I suppose this is the price I must pay in a new culture I don’t have experience with, where a ‘no thanks’ after entering a restaurant or store may be a direct affront to them, their family, the Republic of Korea, and strangely the members of the 1989 Denver Broncos.

But the food was the truth, and tasted exactly like chicken, because it was chicken. They also included a coke. 13,000 won was a fair trade.

2009년 10월 1일 목요일

An unusual exhale


I sit here in my home, in exhaustion and accomplishment. I don't believe I've experienced, in my entire life, the feelings that I have right now. I am alone, on a squeaky chair typing away in a room without shoes on, still wearing my dress shirt and khakis from the day, but now two buttons are loosened and the tie is on the couch. It's that familiar scene where a man stumbles in from a long day of work and finally has at least a temporary rest. But my version, where I am now in Mokpo, South Korea, feels completely different, and it's an acknowledging mindset I now hold. I acknowledge the absolute chaos that was this last week, and I acknowledge the importance and timing of my decision to come here to begin with. In this last week, since my last post on this blog, I have been involved in an absolute whirlwind of activity, and the term is used appropriately. Kathryn and Hugh, who I owe much to at this point, did their very best, and succeeded greatly, in breaking me in and giving me a very intuitive introduction to the culture, people, food, language, and lifestyle that I now assume. I could never speak for another teacher who went abroad, and I don't know their initial experiences in dealing with the changes involved in making the trip. I can't, but I can speak for mine, and I am obligated to thank Kathryn and Hugh for their support in only four short days, to this unorthodox endeavor I'm attempting. Honestly, Kathryn and Hugh, you are a truly remarkable pair and even though our friendships were short-lived (as far as nearness is concerned), you need to know that your friendships and help came at the most important time. This decision to come to Mokpo has been the biggest in my life. Your help has been invaluable, and I love you both for that. You two are going to have a freaking blast over these next months, and naturally part of me is jealous. But I belong here now, and I'll get to all of that wild extensive traveling at another time in my life. Kathryn and Hugh, you two are incredible. Good luck with everything. And the apartment is a dream, by the way. And yes Hugh, I'll likely need to consult the apartment guide to accomplish laundry.

I realize that right now I'm in an unusual hypnotic state, and I'm allowing for the sake of the moment my mind to return to where I was just one year ago, and then one month ago, and then one week ago. There's been a lot of change of me in this last year and those close to me know of the change. I'm still the same person but there has been change, and I'm very thankful and blessed to be able to come here and take myself into the next chapter of this change. I miss my family incredibly, and I imagine it will affect me in idle moments and linger for a while. But you all need to know, I do this for you in many ways, and I'm so fortunate to have the opportunity to be apart of your lives. I can't explain it more than that, but you all carry me in my thoughts, and your individual examples are the greatest spectacles I've witnessed in my life. Words are not meant to express my love for you all.

Mokpo is my home now, and it was confirmed the minute I came into town - although my first moments in Mokpo were in an exhaustive dream-state that I barely recall. But, the pictures and things I've read about the city were stuck in my mind for months, and as I come across areas and locations that I've seen and heard about, the surreal feelings unsurprisingly manifest. And they are not intimidating or strange, but very comforting and assuring. I belong here and I will continue to prove to myself that.

Ms. Yoon, my boss and the academy's director, gave me a gift tonight I didn't expect. This weekend is a Korean holiday called Chuseok, or Thanksgiving. In shopping centers, stores, and even 7-11s (yes they have 7-11s here), there are gift sets you can purchase for people. It's a very giving season and it's a great time to experience Korea because of it. After work today, which was my first official day, Ms. Yoon gave me a bag with a Chuseok gift inside. She's a very stern woman, but she's fair, and still very nice. Obviously, she's concerned about my ability to continue the sort of teaching that Kathryn and Hugh carried out. The shoes I'm filling are huge. In some ways I'm now the face of the academy, as an American, English speaker. Not all academies have a native English-speaking teacher to promote. This particular one has had them, and with me, they'll continue to have one. But I'm now the only one, along with my Korean teacher peers who also speak English. They do not speak it fluently although it's very easy to carry a conversation with them. So there is quite a large amount of pressure on me. But after today, I am confident it can be done.

In this last week, you probably wouldn't believe the amount of Korean whispers circulating through the academy about the "new teacher", the person who would be replacing Hugh-Teacher and Kathryn-Teacher. I got the sense that the majority were optimistic and curious but I'm pretty sure a small portion were slightly angry. Hugh and Kathryn, truly, are loved by their students, and they deserve it all. And so you can imagine my feelings this week while I witnessed their adoration, and then sincere grief when Hugh and Kathryn left. I saw probably five students cry, and heard maybe six of many that had no remark about their sadness of their departure. These are great kids and they really developed a bond with Kathryn and Hugh. So this week, as I've been sitting in on classes and saying my hellos and how are yous they've been very curious. And today was the first real test of my aptitude for the position not only for the school but for the children as their new, American, blond-haired replacement teacher. Lindsay, thank you so much for the conversation this morning. It gave me a huge boost, and I love you so much.

To summarize the experience, I can say it went very well. The students were able to interact with me and I was able to learn more about them. I even was able to lash out, shortly, at a few students who were causing trouble, and I found the role, which really is completely new to me, as very natural, and the students immediately respected it and corrected themselves. Altogether I couldn't have asked for a better experience. I even asked one student "How are you today?" to which she replied, "I am happy because new teacher is handsome". I blushed.

I don't want to stop writing but I should. I feel very fortunate right now, in ways that I've never felt my entire life. I think now I'll cook a bunch of food that I bought at the market that is written completely in Korean, and use some of the canola oil that Ms. Yoon gave me for Chuseok. I'm having an absolute blast, and life feels very much in my control. And it feels very good.

I love you all.

Anthony